ESTONIA-THE SINGING NATION-PART THREE

excerpted from
my book Our Summer
in Estonia,Amazon.com



Elysee with father figure Gustav Ernesak's statue






As Communist Party control began to unravel when Gorbachev loosened the reins, Estonians tested their strength, timidly at first, and then with growing courage. It was a s though the jailor left the door open, but prisoners were unsure of their next move. Should they take a step out and see what happens, then another? Then run, run, run.


The Estonian people turned to song to begin testing their new limits. In September 1988, not a festival year and a year before the Berlin Wall came down, some 300,000 people, a quarter of the adult population, gathered at the song festival grounds to sing Estonian national songs, show the formerly forbidden Estonian flag and listen, for the first time, for calls for independence.

1988 gathering. Note illegal Estonian flag,

almost reverent yearning in peoples faces.

Just two years later, in 1990, and still part of the USSR, up to 500,000 Estonians, one-third of the nation's population, came to the first non-Communist Party controlled Estonian Song Festival. The choir from the Russian Language School came dressed in the colors of the Estonian flag. And the performance by the Soviet Choir, from the Friendship Society, met with deafening silence.

Gustav Ernesaks (1908-1994) an aged revered conductor who had performed during the Estonian Republics inter-World War years came by horse and carriage. As a youthful twenty-nine years of age he first rose to the conductors platform in 1938 and led the chorus in singing his composition, "Let's Get Going Men."

BTW, The Estonian Literature Museum contains more that 1,300,000 pages of folk songs. It is said that only Ireland has more folk music than Estonia. In July, 2004 the festival had 21,325 singers, 796 choruses, and 51 orchestras. How inspiring to hear 19,000 choristers, the largest in the world, singing in unison, with precision and clarity, and leading the proudly standing 100,000 plus attendees, in singing Lydia Koidula's, My Fatherland, You Are My Love.


Long Live Free Estonia.

ESTONIA-THE SINGING NATION- PART TWO

A festival during the Soviet era. Note the portriat of Lenin at the right, general red tone of color in the audience, and the red festooned platform for Party officials at the left.

(Excerpted from Our Summer in Estonia Amazon.com)

Estonia's association as a singing nation began in the city of Tartu, home of Tartu University, in June, 1869. The inspiration for a national song festival came from Johann Voldemar Jannsen, a leader of a movement known as the National Awakening a mid-19th century period, when Estonia's long suppressed people set about discovering and creating a national identity. Jannsen founded the first Estonian newspaper. His name sounds German, because when serfdom was abolished, many Estonians took their Baltic German master's name. who, in Jannsen's case, was Voldemar. Jannsen became inspired by seeing music festivals in Germany and Switzerland, and German choirs in Tallinn. He knew of the Estonian peasant's rich store of folk music. Why not an All-Estonian song festival?

At the very first festival, Jannsen's daughter, Lydia Koidula, who would go on to become famous as an Estonian poet and playwright, penned the lyrics of the song My Fatherland, You Are My Love, that has become the unofficial national anthem. There were continuous festivals up to WWI, and one every five years between world wars. During the Soviet years following WWII, the festival was tightly controlled and programmed not to celebrate Estonia but the glories of socialism.

Reading a history of the song festival, published in 1985 during the Soviet occupation, is revealing. The author notes that there was a "popular revolution" in 1940 when Estonia "joined the Soviet Union," and following WWII, Estonia was "liberated." No Estonian today would agree with that interpretation of history. (more to follow)

all-Estonian song festiva?

ESTONIA- THE SINGING NATION-PART ONE

The festival grounds. The stage can hold 25,000 performers, the grounds 500,00. More photos in future posts.

(excerpted from Our Summer in Estonia see my profile for more information)

Worldwide there are many well known and highly regarded musical festivals. They take different forms. Some, for example, celebrate a prolific and renowned composer, such as Wagner or Mozart. Others represent a style of music such as opera at Spoleto and jazz at Monterey. What's more, these festivals endure as commercial successes, filling hotels and cafes with tourists. But I don't know of another festival as unique as the Estonian Song Festival, unique for several reasons. The first reason is its frequency, being held only once every five years. Compared to most festivals, that's a long interval between meetings. A second factor is its dimension. Usually lasting only three or four days, it nevertheless, has been attended by as much as one-third if the population. That's an enormous out poring of national support. Third is its longevity. This festival can trace its lineage to 1869. I don't know what other festival compares. Last, is its patriotic fervor. The festival primarily celebrates being Estonian. It has provided a means at critical times in Estonia's history, for people to express their desire for freedom and, at other times, as a means to express an awakening of Estonian self-identity. While other people express political disaffection by marching in protest, camping out in public places refusing to move, wearing masks to seek anonymity as they destroy property, take school children hostage, or simply go on strike, Estonians sing.

There are many names attached to the revolutionary change Eastern European nations have experienced in their breakaway from the Soviet Union. The Czech Republic's experience, for example is referred to the Velvet Revolution. For Estonia, it is the singing revolution. More to follow on this wonderful, inspiring story of a nation's rise to freedom.

ESTONIA---RENT A USED CAR AND SAVE $$$

'92 Ford Mondeo outside my apartment in Tallinn with Elysee looking on.

Hannes and I closing the three month deal for cash.

Continuing my story about spending the summer in Estonia (see my profile and web site) I want to discuss how I address the need for a rental car during our entire summer. For our first summer abroad, in Kinsale Ireland, I rented a car from a well known US auto agency. Was I naive? With all the added fees I ended up paying over $4,000 for three months rental on a Korean four-banger. I learned my lesson. I begin looking for an alternative as soon as I have confirmed where I am going to stay or the summer. Often the rental agent or the person I am leasing from is very helpful in tracking down a used car rental agency, garage, or a separate individual looking to rent a used car for three months.

In Estonia the rental agent put me in touch with Hannes Kree who was in the used car rental business. We agreed on $17.50 a day for a 1992 Ford Mondeo station wagon with a full tank of gas, insurance, all taxes and unlimited mileage. That was about half what he normally gets for a short term rental and about five times less than I would have paid had I simply picked up a car at the airport.

Renting a used car for the long term and paying up front in cash really makes a difference. A mid-size Toyota from a front line agency would have been $90 a day, compared to my $17.50. When I had one minor mechanical problem with the Ford, Hannas picked it up, gave me a driver for the meantime, and fixed the problem in a day.

To paraphrase what George Forman says in his ad about mufflers, "I ain't gonna pay a lot for that car rental."

OUR LOVE NEST IN TALLINN

Sauna with hugh whirlpool tub.

The martini bar is open

Many a fine meal from this fully equipped kitchen

Our spacious living room. Stairs lead to lower level.

For six years Elysee and I have put into practice our adopted retired lifestyle: "The World Is Our Second Home." (See my profile for more information on that.) We have ranged from Slovenia, to Carmel, California, to Australia/New Zealand. Our Estonian "Love Nest" fit right in. Within days of arriving we had adjusted the furniture, put our personal photos in place, bought fresh flowers, set up our cocktail bar, established separate places for each of us to work, and enjoyed our traditional first meal, schnitzel, with a fine local wine.

I had begun searching for a place in Tallinn the previous fall, was helped greatly by a local agent, EREL INTERNATIONAL, did my customary due diligence before signing the lease, and passed the moment of truth when the key is first turned in the door. After all, we would be there for 100 days.

The location was ideal. On the very edge of Old Town. The apartment was big by European standards, 1200 sq. ft. on two levels, coming equipped with a sauna and a Turkish bath. WOW.

Contact me if you would like more information on how I rent a place for an entire summer each year, or simply for advice about staying in Tallinn.

A NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN SQUARE-PART TWO

ITS ELYSEE'S TURN

I was doing just fine, surrounded by a bevy of Estonian beauties. The remainder of this story is also excerpted from my book Our Summer in Estonia.
"All was going great for me, when my competition arrived. A group of Brits, who, believe it or not, were also on the town showing one of their mates a good time, because he too was soon to be married. Of course this was great for Elysee. Fair play, so to speak."
The odds of our meeting separate male and female group, within minutes of each other, each out for a night of carousing to honor a friend about to get married, are incalculable. As Elysee and I continued our way home, we looked over our shoulder and saw both groups, together, make the turn that took them into the town square. I have to leave the rest to your imagination.
The town Square is a wonderful gathering place any evening of the year.

NIGHT OUT AT TOWN SQUARE-PART ONE

I'm in Estonian Heaven. The lady in the red hair is the bride to be.

I would certainly advise any young person visitng Tallinn to wander into the Old Town Square for night of revelry. Elysee and I were returnig to our apartment from dinner at Controvento, a five minute stroll on a mild summer's night.What transpired next is excerpted from my book."I looked ahead along the lane and saw, moving towards me, a stunning, drop-dead-in-your-tracks sight. Wisecraking outload, I said, 'I must have died and gone to Estonia heaven.' This is better than a muslim martyr with his seven virgins. Headed for the square, and thus straight for me, I was suddenly surrounded by a dozen of the liveliest, lovliest, dressed-for-nightime success, young Estonian ladies.I was immersed, reveling, non-resistant, bantering, allowing myself (obviously very safe at my age and also being with my wife Elysee) to be coyly cojoled as though they really cared for me. The girl in the photo with the red hair was soon to marry and her friends were on the town to show her a good time. So it's not just men who kick up their heels before wedded bliss settles in." Guys, Estonian women are a match for any any countries ladies. Smart, trim, good looking and very engaging.

St. Olav's church. World's tallest building?

St. Olav's Built in 1267.

Amazing as it seems for little Estonia, St. Olav's church is reputed to have been the tallest building in the world at the time of its construction. It is 140m (460 feet) high. It was built by Scandinavian merchants as an orientation point for seaman and named after the the Norwegian King Olaf Haraldlson. You can still today climb to the top for a magnificent view over the harbor and down into the Town Square. Are their other claims for tallest building at that time? (Find out more at www.marshallpublications.com)

Estonia old and new

Bird's eye view of of historic town square

As the picture depicts, Tallinn is one of Europe's major treasures in-so-far as preservation of its historic town square and surrounding buildings. It is here that the first use of a Christmas tree is reported, a place that Tsar Peter the Great visited several times, home of Europe's first drug store, still in use today, and the center of Estonia's cultural heritage. Famed St. Nicholas church is at the top and the 15th century town hall dominates the square. This is the magnet that draws thousands of visitors every week.

Estonia Today. Old and New

This picture shows the oldest wooded structure in Tallinn, the Russian orthodox church Our Lady of Kazan built in1721 and the construction of a modern bank office tower of over 30 stories. Estonia, and especially Tallinn the capital which has about one third of the nation's population, is undergoing a rapid modernization. Yet, don't be fooled into thinking the change is haphazard or uncontrolled. Tallinn has, and will continue to, preserve its Old Town, one of the most authentic in Europe.

Pikk Hermann (Tall Herman) where the Estonian National Flag is raised every day. It is from this 15th century tower that the Nazi's raised the swastika and the Soviet's flew their hated Hammer and Sickle. The flag is raised very morning and brought down at sunset except for Mid-summer's eve also the national holiday for Estonia's freedom when it is kept up all night. In my book Our Summer in Estonia I devote the first 32 pages summarizing the fascinating history of Estonia and its journey to the freedom it enjoys today. I will not dwell on this matter on this blog, except to stay, at times I admit to tearing up at the wonderful spirit of the Estonian people as I researched their history. Long live Estonia.

My New Book About Our Summer In Estonia

BOOK COVER

This blog site will have periodic postings from my book, Our Summer in Estonia. Each year my wife Elysee and I go to a different location and rent a place for the entire summer. More about this lifestyle can be found on my website a link to which is provided in the sidebar to the right. Estonia was a wonderful country in which to stay for three months. We took up residence just outside the old city section of Tallinn, made many friends, became impressed with the Estonian people and the progress they have made since shedding the tyranny of Soviet domination, and thoroughly enjoyed to food, climate, and good value. Let me hear your views about Estonia, or send me any questions you may have about visiting the country. You can reach me through my web site. My book is available at a very reasonable $15 at Amazon.com and a link to that page is also provided.